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استراحات زايد الصفحة الرئيسية


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قديم 09-01-2012, 03:10 PM
عضو ماسي
بيانات محروم.كوم
 رقم العضوية : 503
 تاريخ التسجيل : Dec 2007
الجنس : female
علم الدوله :
 المشاركات : 2,100,611
عدد الـنقاط :3341
 تقييم المستوى : 2139

السلام عليكم
هذه الصور لكيفية صناعة قفص باعيون من خيط صيد السمك شبيهة بالعيون الموجودة علي شبكة ظهر الحمام لأجل صيد طائر الباشق او العوسق الشرياص صقر الجراد واحيانا تستعمل هذه الطيور لأغراء الصقر علي الطعام من اجل طرحه

The first task to getting started is to cut the leader line. I have had real good luck catching everything on leader line cut to the lengths of 25 cm. each. I will cut as much leader line as I think needed then start attaching the line to the trap. I will go to a corner of any given square on the hardware cloth and place the line from the bottom side of the top of the cage and feed it through the top. Then I feed both ends of the leader line through a connector. I then take one end of the line and slide the connector down the entire length of the leader line until the connector is butted up against the cage. Now you have one end of the line in one hand and the other end of the line is completely enclosed in the connector. The leader line should then be pulled tight while holding the connector. Most likely you will have to pull on the one exposed end of the line while pushing the connector down of the cage for it to get a good snug fit. When you have completed this, take a pair of diagonal pliers and crimp down on the connector. This will keep the line from coming out of the connector. I crimp down on the connectors in five or six different areas up and down the length of the connector to ensure the leader line will not pull out. Connect all your leader lines that you may want to your trap before completing anything else. This will make it easier for the next step.


Now you should have a trap with a bunch of leader lines attached. What I do next is epoxy the connectors to the trap. Stand up all the connectors from the trap and epoxy them to the trap preventing them to lay over once the epoxy is dry. If you have snugged up the lines good before crimping the connectors, they should stand up pretty good already. The only reason for this is to keep the connectors standing straight up from the trap and not lay over when a bird lands on the trap. This in turn keeps the nooses standing up tall when the bird is all over the trap.


Once the epoxy has dried good, the next step is to complete the assembly of the nooses. Take a connector and install it on the end of a leader line. Slide it down the line enough to where you can take the exposed end of the line and wrap the line half way around the main line. Put the end of the line back in the connector. The end on the leader line will go on the side where the leader line came out of the connector originally. Slide the line up in the connector until you see the end of the line in the connector. You should never have any exposed ends of leader lines from connectors on this trap if you assembly them correctly. Pull the connector tight enough on the leader line to where it is a loop on the main part of the leader line. This loop is the tricky part. You want the loop as small as possible, but not so small that it will not slide up and down the main line. You also do not want a loop too big for it will slip up and down the line way too easy and you may lose a bird. The loop will be approximately a 1/16" to 1/8" in diameter. Once you have the loop to the desired size, crimp the connector to prevent the leader line from coming out. Once again, crimp the connector in five or six different spots. To make sure you got what you are looking for, just slide the looped end of the noose up and down the main part of the leader line to ensure it moves freely.

One of the most important parts of this noose is very simple. After you have completed the assembly of a given noose, go to the end of the connector opposite of the loop you have just completed. Bend the end of the connector approximately one-third in a upwards direction opposite of your small loop end approximately 60 - 80 degrees as in the illustration. After doing that step, then bend the leader line perpendicular to the adjoining leader line. I just bend the connector with needle nose and diagonal pliers. Bending this leader line at the connector does two important things to make the trap a large success. First it makes the noose work freely up the leader line. Second, once the noose is cinched up all the way, the noose locks in place against the snared object eliminating any escapes. This is something that can be is easily tested. Just put your finger in the noose and lift up. Once your finger is caught you should be able to drop your finger towards the trap, but the noose should not loosen. If the noose does slacken up some, just bend the leader line some more. The only way to loosen the noose is to physically push the connector down the main leader line. After you have bent the line at the connector of the loop and checked them all for locking abilities, the line will should stay bent at the connector. If you do not bend the line at this point of the connector, the noose will drag going up the leader line and once you have dropped your finger towards the trap, the noose will immediately slacken up letting you off the trap in turn letting your bird go free.

So image having a trap that could last you a lifetime. No more monofilament fishing line for the gerbils to eat and having to be replaced. In fact no more need for the double cage for the bait either. How about the assurance that once a bird is caught that the noose will not break. For the critics about locking nooses, I agree with them if the noose is made of breakable material, but this material will not break if properly assembled. This trap has and does all this with never injuring any bird that has been caught. At one time this trap had two Harris Hawks caught at the same time bating opposite directions and never broke or damaged a noose. Sounds to good to believe, huh. Well it has worked for me. Others have used my trap with great success. At the Amarillo meet, a couple of falconers actually caught some starlings with the trap using dog food for bait that was placed on top of the trap. The starlings then were placed in the trap. The falconers then went trapping for Prairie Falcons that day and caught two. To date, this trap has caught everything between a merlin all the way through the size of ferruginous hawk. It does takes some time to assemble a trap like this, but once it is completed it will catch birds for you for a very long time and so long as you do not run over it or lose it, this will probably be your last b.c. trap that you will build.




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